Looking for advice between 520d / e200d / A6 Diesel

[T J Tomlin]

I intend purchasing a second hand diesel over the next few months. My preferred option is the BMW 520d but I am also considering the Merc e200d or a diesel Audi A6. i have been looking at 2010 and 2011 models with circa 100,000 miles on the clock (I'm on a budget!). I normally keep the car for approx 5 years and probably put the same amount of mileage again on them. I always keep a car well serviced and am well used to the odd issues that come with high mileage. However I get a little worried when I hear the commentary about timing chain failures on 520d's for example. While I accept there are never any guarantees I would really appreciate some advice on the pros and cons of each make, engine wise in particular, what I should look out for, what I should get done when I purchase and what the best bet is for me for a car that I expect to have 200,000 miles plus on after 5 years of ownership. Your advice will be much appreciated.

 

[Mick Briesgau]

I intend purchasing a second hand diesel over the next few months. My preferred option is the BMW 520d but I am also considering the Merc e200d or a diesel Audi A6. i have been looking at 2010 and 2011 models with circa 100,000 miles on the clock (I'm on a budget!). I normally keep the car for approx 5 years and probably put the same amount of mileage again on them. I always keep a car well serviced and am well used to the odd issues that come with high mileage. However I get a little worried when I hear the commentary about timing chain failures on 520d's for example. While I accept there are never any guarantees I would really appreciate some advice on the pros and cons of each make, engine wise in particular, what I should look out for, what I should get done when I purchase and what the best bet is for me for a car that I expect to have 200,000 miles plus on after 5 years of ownership. Your advice will be much appreciated.

Welcome to the forum @T J Tomlin. Most professional high mileage drivers (like taxi drivers) buy Mercedes-Benz. Probably for a reason...?
Edit: I do remember though that the early W212 4 cylinder diesel engines (2009) did have some problems with there injectors.

 

[Centurion]

The condition of cars above 100,000 greatly vary. Cars that have been looked after well will drive like new while those that haven’t will drive like junk. A 5 min inspection of the exterior will tell you which camp the car belong in.

What I would do from day one is a major service as cars without a service history tend to only under go basic service. Change oil, oil filter and diesel particle filter if the car has one.

Thing to look out for:
Shoddy electronic - test all features of the car, both at idle and at speed. These can be expensive and a headache to fix if your local mechanic doesn’t have expertise with a certain brand. Something small as a disobedient reverse light can require work on the gearbox. If your local independent mechanic is a Mercedes expert that doesn’t charge much, a Mercedes could be a good bet.

Uneven tyre wear - there could be a wheel alignment issue.

Consumables - scored brake rotors will need changed instantly along with pad. So take replacement costs for rotors, pads and tyres into consideration. It can be cheaper to spend a bit more on a car that doesn’t need all replaced from day one.

Poor performing aircon - it’s can be costly to repair so test it at max and min temperature.

Underbody damage - bring a torch to see look for any concealed damage or ghetto repairs.

Receipt - have timing chains been change at the right interval.


Most importantly, drive at least 2-3 examples of each car to get a sense of what one in good condition should feel like. Two years ago a friend a mine bought a used high mileage E90. Last month he took it for service at a main dealer and it passed every check with flying colours. He hasn’t had a single problem with it. There are some great bargains out there should you find the right car.

 

[Giannis]

Don't forget to check all bushings, engine mounts, sub-frame mounts, tie rods and steering rods. Plenty of parts to go bad, replacement costs are usually ok, but if the number of parts is large, then the cost can easily skyrocket!

Uneven tyre wear - there could be a wheel alignment issue.

That may hint to bent sub-frame, suspension parts and/ or wheels, as well.

Poor performing aircon - it’s can be costly to repair so test it at max and min temperature.

Or, it just needs fresh R134. A full AC service for my S60 costed me 30€ last year, as I noticed low AC performance. The technician removed all liquid/gas from the system, run some cleaning solution through it and then refilled with R134 and some other liquid. Also, a decontamination/ disinfection of the whole HVAC system costs about 20€ if you do it yourself (it's a piece of cake and it does wonder to the air quality!)

Consumables - scored brake rotors will need changed instantly along with pad. So take replacement costs for rotors, pads and tyres into consideration. It can be cheaper to spend a bit more on a car that doesn’t need all replaced from day one.

If you plan to put 100.000 miles on the car then you'll replace all brake parts eventually. It's better to replace them from day one, and have a great breaking experience from the beginning.

Shoddy electronic - test all features of the car, both at idle and at speed. These can be expensive and a headache to fix if your local mechanic doesn’t have expertise with a certain brand. Something small as a disobedient reverse light can require work on the gearbox. If your local independent mechanic is a Mercedes expert that doesn’t charge much, a Mercedes could be a good bet.

In all my driving life, I've only met exactly one service technician who knows his shit when it comes to electronics. Sadly, he only services VAG cars.

If it were me, I'd run away from a car with faulty electronics.

 

[Centurion]

Don't forget to check all bushings, engine mounts, sub-frame mounts, tie rods and steering rods. Plenty of parts to go bad, replacement costs are usually ok, but if the number of parts is large, then the cost can easily skyrocket!


That may hint to bent sub-frame, suspension parts and/ or wheels, as well.


Or, it just needs fresh R134. A full AC service for my S60 costed me 30€ last year, as I noticed low AC performance. The technician removed all liquid/gas from the system, run some cleaning solution through it and then refilled with R134 and some other liquid. Also, a decontamination/ disinfection of the whole HVAC system costs about 20€ if you do it yourself (it's a piece of cake and it does wonder to the air quality!)


If you plan to put 100.000 miles on the car then you'll replace all brake parts eventually. It's better to replace them from day one, and have a great breaking experience from the beginning.


In all my driving life, I've only met exactly one service technician who knows his shit when it comes to electronics. Sadly, he only services VAG cars.

If it were me, I'd run away from a car with faulty electronics.

Awesome advice, thanks for the additions.

Finding a mechanic that knows how to diagnose and repair electronics, AND doesn’t charge a fortune is hard. A close friend of mine replaced his W211 E55 with a certified used 2014 Mercedes CL. The 12 month dealer warranty has expired but he hasn’t bothered extending it as he is buddy with a independent Mercedes specialist. Because of that relationship, he backed off the idea of getting a Continental GT or an also-expensive to repair, Audi A8.

Last time I bought a used car I replaced pads and discs from day one. Granted it was a 1989 Toyota Celica with low running costs. It can be more cost prohibitive on a Mercedes, BMW or Audi but if you want to run a used German luxur car for a long time, some expenses must be accepted.

 

[Lupusmajor]

I would avoid 2 liter diesel from BMW.Many have problem with a timing chain. And replacement is very expensive because timing chain is on the back of engine. If you want to replace the chain, you must first remove the gearbox.

 

[Mick Briesgau]

I would avoid 2 liter diesel from BMW.Many have problem with a timing chain. And replacement is very expensive because timing chain is on the back of engine. If you want to replace the chain, you must first remove the gearbox.

Is that in issue in the 3 liter diesel as well?

 

[CrunchSlaughtered]

Is that in issue in the 3 liter diesel as well?

Its only in the 2 liter, but BMW had a compain for free fixing of the problem

 

[CrunchSlaughtered]

I intend purchasing a second hand diesel over the next few months. My preferred option is the BMW 520d but I am also considering the Merc e200d or a diesel Audi A6. i have been looking at 2010 and 2011 models with circa 100,000 miles on the clock (I'm on a budget!). I normally keep the car for approx 5 years and probably put the same amount of mileage again on them. I always keep a car well serviced and am well used to the odd issues that come with high mileage. However I get a little worried when I hear the commentary about timing chain failures on 520d's for example. While I accept there are never any guarantees I would really appreciate some advice on the pros and cons of each make, engine wise in particular, what I should look out for, what I should get done when I purchase and what the best bet is for me for a car that I expect to have 200,000 miles plus on after 5 years of ownership. Your advice will be much appreciated.

e200d is a little bit weak in power, better consider e220d. Audi with 2l diesel is usually only front wheel drive which makes it the least recommendable. F10 is by far the best choice

 

[Deleted member 1071]

Coking of intake passages on 4 cylinder BMW diesels can be an issue.

 

[Lupusmajor]

Is that in issue in the 3 liter diesel as well?

No. That's way I bought 3 liter diesel. And it's great motor.

 

[Lupusmajor]

Its only in the 2 liter, but BMW had a compain for free fixing of the problem

But they didn't fix the problem. They say that the only problem was the engine build between 2008 and 2009. Most of my friends had a problem. The last friend bought 318d f31 year 2013 eingen broke because of timing chain. The other two colleagues had to also fix the problem at their own expense. One have a 118d e87 year 2009 and the other have a 320d e91 year 2011. And third friend also changed timing chain on 118d e87 year 2008 but on BMW cost. So that's why I bought 330d and I don't have to worry about timing chain.

 

[martinbo]

I've done over 130 000 km in two F30 320ds at high altitude, high temperatures. Not one mechanical issue.

 

[JLBM]

I've done over 130 000 km in two F30 320ds at high altitude, high temperatures. Not one mechanical issue.

130k combined, or 65k each?

 

[Lupusmajor]

I've done over 130 000 km in two F30 320ds at high altitude, high temperatures. Not one mechanical issue.

I don't say tha every 2 liter has a timing chain problem. But is common problem. It's a little bit of luck in play. I have BMW 330d xdrive e91 2010 October . I bought car from first owner. All services were done by BMW official service. Great Car. But its have typically problems for BMW . Heater fun broken, and tailgate is starting to rust on 3 places(I'm driving to BMW service because of that ).

 

[martinbo]

130k combined, or 65k each?

You mean to ask 130K each or 65K combined but I get the question: 88K in the one 48K in the other.